G
In some old farms in the US the old type goose necked pump at the kitchen sink needed priming (pouring water back down the neck) before it would pump water up so "priming" the pump I semi understand but that you would pump water down the pipe to the subterranean water table to then pump it back up, is a completely new concept to me.
The principle behind the 2 line well water jet pump is the pressure of the water going DOWN thru' a venturi in the 'jet' creates a vacuum which assists in sucking the water back UP.
It's a physics principle used in many applications.
google for 2 line well water pumps for a better explanation and pictures.
It's a physics principle used in many applications.
google for 2 line well water pumps for a better explanation and pictures.
G
Gurkha
Guest
Water pressure help
Hi,
I am new here and think this forum is very helpful.
I have been following this thread, because I also have a water pressure problem in my 2-storey house.
I live in Sanur with my family (wife + 2 kids) and our current source of water is ground water (although we've recently added PDAM, we haven't connected it to the house yet). The water is being pumped from a well and directly fed to the house. Although pressure is fine on the first floor, it is hardly possible to take a shower on the second floor.
Additionally a hot water tank is attached to the wall on the second floor. Water temperature is not constant but acceptable on the first floor. On the second floor I get cold water and boiling hot water rotating every 30 seconds.
I have been looking for a solution to get enough water pressure on the second floor and a non-fluctuating water temperature. Can anybody help me as this is making me 'pusing'
.
Pressure solution 1:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank on top of roof or build a tower
- rely on gravity
pro: one time building cost, contra: as indicated in this thread maybe not enough pressure?
Pressure solution 2:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank on top of roof or build a tower
- add another pump after the tank to increase pressure
pro: one time building cost, contra: additional pump running cost
Pressure solution 3:
- pump water from well
- add another pump to increase pressure and 'push' water up to the second floor
pro: no building cost, contra: high running cost, PDAM water might not be enough
Pressure solution 4:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank at ground level (not on top of roof or tower)
- pump water to second floor on demand from tank
pro: no building cost, 2 pumps don't have to run synchronously, contra: high running cost
Which solution makes sense or is there any other solution?
How do I fix the hot/cold water problem? Can this be solved by upgrading the thermostatic shower or will it be solved once I have enough pressure?
I would appreciate any kind of help and sorry for the long text.
Hi,
I am new here and think this forum is very helpful.
I have been following this thread, because I also have a water pressure problem in my 2-storey house.
I live in Sanur with my family (wife + 2 kids) and our current source of water is ground water (although we've recently added PDAM, we haven't connected it to the house yet). The water is being pumped from a well and directly fed to the house. Although pressure is fine on the first floor, it is hardly possible to take a shower on the second floor.
Additionally a hot water tank is attached to the wall on the second floor. Water temperature is not constant but acceptable on the first floor. On the second floor I get cold water and boiling hot water rotating every 30 seconds.
I have been looking for a solution to get enough water pressure on the second floor and a non-fluctuating water temperature. Can anybody help me as this is making me 'pusing'
. Pressure solution 1:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank on top of roof or build a tower
- rely on gravity
pro: one time building cost, contra: as indicated in this thread maybe not enough pressure?
Pressure solution 2:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank on top of roof or build a tower
- add another pump after the tank to increase pressure
pro: one time building cost, contra: additional pump running cost
Pressure solution 3:
- pump water from well
- add another pump to increase pressure and 'push' water up to the second floor
pro: no building cost, contra: high running cost, PDAM water might not be enough
Pressure solution 4:
- pump water from well or PDAM
- add a tank at ground level (not on top of roof or tower)
- pump water to second floor on demand from tank
pro: no building cost, 2 pumps don't have to run synchronously, contra: high running cost
Which solution makes sense or is there any other solution?
How do I fix the hot/cold water problem? Can this be solved by upgrading the thermostatic shower or will it be solved once I have enough pressure?
I would appreciate any kind of help and sorry for the long text.
I would go for option 2.
The second pump, after the tank, doesn't need to be a big one and it switches on/of when water is wanted.
Capacity of the first pump is depending how deep your well is.
PDAm water can also be connected to the tank and pressure is usually high enough to fill the tank on a roof or high position. Maybe slowly but who cares.
The second pump, after the tank, doesn't need to be a big one and it switches on/of when water is wanted.
Capacity of the first pump is depending how deep your well is.
PDAm water can also be connected to the tank and pressure is usually high enough to fill the tank on a roof or high position. Maybe slowly but who cares.
I'd go with solution 3, as this is the easiest. You just need to buy a large pump with a large bladder tank attached, the bladder allows the pressure to remain relatively constant and it also stops the pump being activated every time you use water. You could connect this to the bore or PDAM. I'm not convinced the running costs would be more expensive than buying a tank, tower, another smaller pump plus parts and labour. Also, the more complicated the system the more it'll fail.
However, if this is a house you're going to be living in a long time I'd go with solution 2, because without a tank on the roof you've got no water in the event of a power outage.
Here in Denpasar, I don't know about Sanur, the PDAM water pressure isn't enough to reach the 2nd story water tank, we've got to pump it up there.
However, if this is a house you're going to be living in a long time I'd go with solution 2, because without a tank on the roof you've got no water in the event of a power outage.
Here in Denpasar, I don't know about Sanur, the PDAM water pressure isn't enough to reach the 2nd story water tank, we've got to pump it up there.
Hi runaS...welcome to the forum as I see your first post.
The simplest answer is to get someone to connect the PDAM to your current water supply using a T-Valve (3-way ball valve), then switch the Well electric supply OFF. If the Sanur PDAM pressure solves the problem...you're a winner.:applause: In future, if PDAM fails ...switch over the T-valve, and the pump ON, 'till PDAM is repaired.
If PDAM pressure is insufficient then...
Option 2 is your best option but has initial cost. I wouldn't worry about the running cost....as DK & DPSH explained....it isn't much as the 2nd pump only works on demand. You still have the alternate of supply to the tank (using the T-Valve) from PDAM or the Well if PDAM dries-up.
Sorry, I disagree with DPSH on option 3. The bladder tank on top of the pump is only there to dampen pulsations...there isn't enough reservoir of water to supply the demand of a shower etc.
Option 4 is acceptable if location/expense of a tower, or fitting to the roof, is not within budget....but much less efficient.
Your water heater problem will be resolved once you solve the pressure issue. Water heaters rely on input cold water pressure to replace the output hot water and if it has fluctuating input of cold water, it will cycle.....as you now experience.
The simplest answer is to get someone to connect the PDAM to your current water supply using a T-Valve (3-way ball valve), then switch the Well electric supply OFF. If the Sanur PDAM pressure solves the problem...you're a winner.:applause: In future, if PDAM fails ...switch over the T-valve, and the pump ON, 'till PDAM is repaired.
If PDAM pressure is insufficient then...
Option 2 is your best option but has initial cost. I wouldn't worry about the running cost....as DK & DPSH explained....it isn't much as the 2nd pump only works on demand. You still have the alternate of supply to the tank (using the T-Valve) from PDAM or the Well if PDAM dries-up.
Sorry, I disagree with DPSH on option 3. The bladder tank on top of the pump is only there to dampen pulsations...there isn't enough reservoir of water to supply the demand of a shower etc.
Option 4 is acceptable if location/expense of a tower, or fitting to the roof, is not within budget....but much less efficient.
Your water heater problem will be resolved once you solve the pressure issue. Water heaters rely on input cold water pressure to replace the output hot water and if it has fluctuating input of cold water, it will cycle.....as you now experience.
I'm not really sure we are disagreeing. In the case of a shower the pump would simply start up again. A large pump with a large bladder, if calibrated properly, should give you constant water pressure. It shouldn't fluctuate/pulsate much.
Although, now that I think of it, this is Bali so you'll need to take an active interest in the water pump to make sure it's calibrated properly. i.e. Do it yourself.
You are correct...it will all depend on the demand and available supply from the well. If the well supply is limited it doesn't matter how big or how many pumps are used...there is a limited supply.
With a tank, or reservoir, in any hydropneumatic system, the demand is not exceeded until the tank/reservoir empties.
When demand exceeds supply any pump will tend to stall then rise again to meet the demand...this causes system fluctuations. The bladder is designed to make the flow more equal but, if exceeded by demand, will be unable to provide that facility.
With a tank, or reservoir, in any hydropneumatic system, the demand is not exceeded until the tank/reservoir empties.
When demand exceeds supply any pump will tend to stall then rise again to meet the demand...this causes system fluctuations. The bladder is designed to make the flow more equal but, if exceeded by demand, will be unable to provide that facility.