Hello all…

[Jim In Holland]

Hey there,

We're an Indonesian / American couple, Eghi & Jim, currently living in the The Netherlands and getting ready to retire in a couple years to Bali. I'm a UI developer and my wife is a nanny (yes, I married the nanny...). We're still 2+ years away from it, but we wanted to read a bit, learn from other's experiences and perhaps ask a few questions occasionally along the way (but first, read…).

Not sure where we'll end up yet, but buying land is in the future and of course building some kind of small home for us - likely once we're there and not from afar - but we head to there every year, so perhaps one day we can buy a few rounds and meet up in person.

Anyway, thanks for the admission here!

 

[Chris A]

Hello Jim and Eghi,
Welcome. Any questions, please ask. Bali is changing quickly so with you being 2 years out, a lot can change. When's the next time you're in?

 

[Jim In Holland]

Hello Jim and Eghi,
Welcome. Any questions, please ask. Bali is changing quickly so with you being 2 years out, a lot can change. When's the next time you're in?

Hi Chris,
Yep, we've been watching Bali for years and everything is rapidly changing. My wife lived in Bali for a few years before moving to the Netherlands, and we're both amazed by the growth and whether it's actually sustainable. On the other hand, Europe and NL is the same and it's cold...so we're moving.

We'll be in Sanur and Seminyak early this October - 05-10 Oct, and then 10-14 Oct, respectively - so if you're near either we can meet up. I have to check again (the connection to the site has been spotty the past few days and loading/saving posts hasn't worked) but do you know of any expat groups that meet-up? The more opinions, the better!

 

[Chris A]

Hi Chris,
Yep, we've been watching Bali for years and everything is rapidly changing. My wife lived in Bali for a few years before moving to the Netherlands, and we're both amazed by the growth and whether it's actually sustainable. On the other hand, Europe and NL is the same and it's cold...so we're moving.

We'll be in Sanur and Seminyak early this October - 05-10 Oct, and then 10-14 Oct, respectively - so if you're near either we can meet up. I have to check again (the connection to the site has been spotty the past few days and loading/saving posts hasn't worked) but do you know of any expat groups that meet-up? The more opinions, the better!

For expat meet up groups, your best bet is to troll FB I think. There are several FB communities mainly grouped by areas and some by country of origin of the members.

 

[YachtRock]

Hi Chris,
Yep, we've been watching Bali for years and everything is rapidly changing. My wife lived in Bali for a few years before moving to the Netherlands, and we're both amazed by the growth and whether it's actually sustainable. On the other hand, Europe and NL is the same and it's cold...so we're moving.

We'll be in Sanur and Seminyak early this October - 05-10 Oct, and then 10-14 Oct, respectively - so if you're near either we can meet up. I have to check again (the connection to the site has been spotty the past few days and loading/saving posts hasn't worked) but do you know of any expat groups that meet-up? The more opinions, the better!

The growth is not sustainable and there is no signs of it stopping. Me thinks they will just run this train until the wheels fly off.

I'd leave if I could but I'm in too deep at this point.

If you want a jaded expats advice, save yourself the headache and stay in Europe. Come to Bali for extended vacations during the winter. Rent a villa. Change up the location every year. Stay out of south Bali. Then fly back to Europe when the summers starts. Live like a tourist in Bali, not like a resident. That's how Bali is best enjoyed.

I see the tourists lounging on the beach, cold beer in hand and smiles wide. I envy them. They don't know just how fucked this place is.

P.S. Congrats on marrying the Nanny

 

[Jim In Holland]

For expat meet up groups, your best bet is to troll FB I think. There are several FB communities mainly grouped by areas and some by country of origin of the members.

I avoid social media (I’ve built it and know how the sausage is made) so I’ll leave that fun to the wife.

 

[Jim In Holland]

The growth is not sustainable and there is no signs of it stopping. Me thinks they will just run this train until the wheels fly off.

Like most places. Ever been to Amsterdam? 30 years ago, entirely different place…

If you want a jaded expats advice, save yourself the headache and stay in Europe. Come to Bali for extended vacations during the winter. Rent a villa. Change up the location every year. Stay out of south Bali. Then fly back to Europe when the summers starts. Live like a tourist in Bali, not like a resident. That's how Bali is best enjoyed.

We’re more country folk than city, so that never was an option. Fortunately, that’s not the life we’re looking for. Plenty of small green spaces yet to be raped by developers. We’ve found 15 ara (too big - 5 would be more than sufficient - but it’s nice to be away from people) in Tabanan, so still moderately quiet and serene. This next trip is to see how that works for us.

P.S. Congrats on marrying the Nanny

16 years younger - I did well.

 

[YachtRock]

Like most places. Ever been to Amsterdam? 30 years ago, entirely different place…



We’re more country folk than city, so that never was an option. Fortunately, that’s not the life we’re looking for. Plenty of small green spaces yet to be raped by developers. We’ve found 15 ara (too big - 5 would be more than sufficient - but it’s nice to be away from people) in Tabanan, so still moderately quiet and serene. This next trip is to see how that works for us.



16 years younger - I did well.

Whereabouts in Tabanan? I just moved out of there. When I moved there 2 years ago, it was pristine rice fields, mountain views and untouched beaches. Within those 2 years my mountain view got blocked my multiple villa complexes and my local beach got taken over by a Russian oligarch who built a small Russian city there.

Still some really nice areas of Tabanan but definitely depends where you are. The Canggu Virus is spreading up the coastline at record speeds.

 

[Jim In Holland]

Nothing specific as yet - we’re searching online and plan to check out the region in more detail in about 46 days (not that we’re counting…).

We did expect to have the Canggu virus move up our way, but we’re also not fixed to the area.

 

[gtrken]

Welcome Lurch ( loved the Addams Family) .
I guess the wife still has her Indonesian citizenship which makes purchasing SO much easier.

If not then just lease but I am sure you are aware of all that.
We have a small Kost/House in/on Bukit and it's fairly quiet there but for growing your own produce then Tabanan or Bedugal is the place to be.

Shame we are still slaving away in Oz while the family enjoys our hard work. Still someone has to manage the place...

Cheers
Wished I was there
Ken

 

[Jim In Holland]

Hey Ken - thanks for reaching out. Yes - the wife is still legit, so getting on and actually purchasing property won't be a problem. We're still undecided which way to go, but we do know this - we want space. I've been in apartments since I left home as a child, and my wife had been living out of a suitcase since she started nannying 15-20 years ago... we just want some room to spread out, and also not live on top of each other. And since she's taken over the kitchen, I want my own man-cave - comfy chairs, arcade machines, beer fridge, barbecue… a man's gotta dream, right?

I think that's the key - leasing has been our lives, and now we want the security of ownership. Things as we want them, without having to get permission first. As I get older, I get crankier... …so getting things our way is important. And when I say "our way", I of course mean "her way" - hence the need for a man cave.

 

[Markit]

Ignore YachtRock he's always pissed because he's having to live with his own shitty decisions made BEFORE discovering this forum and all the wonderful advice given available for free.

EXAMPLE 1: the wife will hate it here - 15 years aint nuttin between bule and local beauty and you will be prime meat here with those even 30 years younger. You gotta understand, for them it's all upside - guy has oodles of dosh, won't jump them twice a day and is happy with a cold beer AND doesn't mind when her fam rock up - well, not immediately.
EXAMPLE 2: once the local fam have rocked up for a "short visit" it will get longer and longer and 1 guess who gets to pay.
EXAMPLE 3: make absolutely sure you get a post nuptial agreement documenting what happens to any land you buy after you split with your missus (because split you will, sorry, but thems the facts)
EXAMPLE 4: check out the east of Bali, where all the smart people live (me) as it's largely escaped the depredations of the building chaos that's engulfed many other parts of the island.
EXAMPLE 5: stay away from farcebook as most of the 'expats' there have been on the island only about 2 weeks, never managed to get out of Denpasar and already know everything...NOT!.

I'm sure the others will have more to say...

 

[YachtRock]

Ignore YachtRock he's always pissed because he's having to live with his own shitty decisions made BEFORE discovering this forum and all the wonderful advice given available for free.

EXAMPLE 1: the wife will hate it here - 15 years aint nuttin between bule and local beauty and you will be prime meat here with those even 30 years younger. You gotta understand, for them it's all upside - guy has oodles of dosh, won't jump them twice a day and is happy with a cold beer AND doesn't mind when her fam rock up - well, not immediately.
EXAMPLE 2: once the local fam have rocked up for a "short visit" it will get longer and longer and 1 guess who gets to pay.
EXAMPLE 3: make absolutely sure you get a post nuptial agreement documenting what happens to any land you buy after you split with your missus (because split you will, sorry, but thems the facts)
EXAMPLE 4: check out the east of Bali, where all the smart people live (me) as it's largely escaped the depredations of the building chaos that's engulfed many other parts of the island.
EXAMPLE 5: stay away from farcebook as most of the 'expats' there have been on the island only about 2 weeks, never managed to get out of Denpasar and already know everything...NOT!.

I'm sure the others will have more to say...

Markit, I'm disappointed. Everything I've learned in life came from you. You are my guru. You made me this way

 

[Shadrach]

Ignore YachtRock he's always pissed because he's having to live with his own shitty decisions made BEFORE discovering this forum and all the wonderful advice given available for free.

EXAMPLE 1: the wife will hate it here - 15 years aint nuttin between bule and local beauty and you will be prime meat here with those even 30 years younger. You gotta understand, for them it's all upside - guy has oodles of dosh, won't jump them twice a day and is happy with a cold beer AND doesn't mind when her fam rock up - well, not immediately.
EXAMPLE 2: once the local fam have rocked up for a "short visit" it will get longer and longer and 1 guess who gets to pay.
EXAMPLE 3: make absolutely sure you get a post nuptial agreement documenting what happens to any land you buy after you split with your missus (because split you will, sorry, but thems the facts)
EXAMPLE 4: check out the east of Bali, where all the smart people live (me) as it's largely escaped the depredations of the building chaos that's engulfed many other parts of the island.
EXAMPLE 5: stay away from farcebook as most of the 'expats' there have been on the island only about 2 weeks, never managed to get out of Denpasar and already know everything...NOT!.

I'm sure the others will have more to say...

I also agree with Markit, about checking out East Bali. As soon as you past Gianyar, you get a feeling if life slowing down. You also start to see the landscape become more and more mountainous. The traffic becomes much less congested. You will only see the occasional tourist on the road. There are some beautiful beaches along the way. Mostly black sand, and the occasional secluded white sand beach. I like the secluded white sand beach near Padang Bai. Called Beas Tugal. You have to walk or ride a motorbke over the hill to get to it. There are only a few small warungs set up by the locals for drinks and food. As you go farther East, you will come to the village of Bug Bug, which has a nice white sand beach below. The beach in Candidasa has been largely washed out so they built some gaudy concrete barriers to try to prevent further erosion. After that, you will have to go over the mountain, until you get to North Bali. If you turn right, you will come to Amed, which has a peaceful vibe, and gravelly beaches.
I like the road from there, around the Far Eastern part of Bali. It has been a very long time since I went that way, but when I did, it was very beautiful with views of Lombok.

The one problem I found was a lack of supermarkets, that carry more of the foods, I like to buy. @ Olive oil, Apple cider vinegar, 100% pure juice, Harum Manis mangoes, Haas avocadoes, Brown bread, etc. you have to go back to Ubud, to find those types of food. Good luck.

 

[Markit]

Markit, I'm disappointed. Everything I've learned in life came from you. You are my guru. You made me this way

Dude you have way too much hair for that to be possible - Grasshopper...

 

[Markit]

Shame we are still slaving away in Oz while the family enjoys our hard work. Still someone has to manage the place...

Cheers
Wished I was there
Ken
What did I say? Ken just wouldn't listen...

 

[Jim In Holland]

Ignore YachtRock he's always pissed because he's having to live with his own shitty decisions made BEFORE discovering this forum and all the wonderful advice given available for free.

Who says I’m listening to any of you yahoos?

EXAMPLE 1: the wife will hate it here

The wife is pushing to go here. What happens, happens - but I’ve gotten the “you handum man”-treatment in Thailand and its not swayed me one bit. Fortunately, I’m cheap so I can see right through that.

EXAMPLE 2: once the local fam have rocked up for a "short visit" it will get longer and longer and 1 guess who gets to pay.

They’re 2 islands over and we’re not building guest rooms. Already ahead of you on that one…

EXAMPLE 3: make absolutely sure you get a post nuptial agreement documenting what happens to any land you buy after you split with your missus (because split you will, sorry, but thems the facts)

Being done in October, years before we move.

EXAMPLE 4: check out the east of Bali, where all the smart people live (me) as it's largely escaped the depredations of the building chaos that's engulfed many other parts of the island.

Will do - we have 5 days east (Sanur) and 4.5 days west (Seminyak) to do a little exploring north of each point. Then back to the pool, thankyouverymuch…I have bikinis to watch.

EXAMPLE 5: stay away from farcebook as most of the 'expats' there have been on the island only about 2 weeks, never managed to get out of Denpasar and already know everything...NOT!.

Ever go to a party and there are people who can’t converse? They don’t listen and prefer to do all the talking? That’s Facebook, or Xitter, or Instacrap, et al. I stopped with the social media ~2015 and haven’t looked back. It’s a cesspool of poisonous people.

 

[Jim In Holland]

I also agree with Markit, about checking out East Bali. As soon as you past Gianyar, you get a feeling if life slowing down. You also start to see the landscape become more and more mountainous. The traffic becomes much less congested. You will only see the occasional tourist on the road. There are some beautiful beaches along the way. Mostly black sand, and the occasional secluded white sand beach. I like the secluded white sand beach near Padang Bai. Called Beas Tugal. You have to walk or ride a motorbke over the hill to get to it. There are only a few small warungs set up by the locals for drinks and food. As you go farther East, you will come to the village of Bug Bug, which has a nice white sand beach below. The beach in Candidasa has been largely washed out so they built some gaudy concrete barriers to try to prevent further erosion. After that, you will have to go over the mountain, until you get to North Bali. If you turn right, you will come to Amed, which has a peaceful vibe, and gravelly beaches.
I like the road from there, around the Far Eastern part of Bali. It has been a very long time since I went that way, but when I did, it was very beautiful with views of Lombok.

It sounds lovely - thanks for the heads up on the areas near Amed. We’ll already planned to take a day or two driving up in that area. We were looking for something more secluded and relaxed, but still within a 30-minute drive of signs of life.

The one problem I found was a lack of supermarkets, that carry more of the foods, I like to buy. @ Olive oil, Apple cider vinegar, 100% pure juice, Harum Manis mangoes, Haas avocadoes, Brown bread, etc. you have to go back to Ubud, to find those types of food. Good luck.

Yep - I expect this to be an overall problem. We both like to cook, bake, bbq and I already get I’m likely to have to travel for provisions, but for now it’s fine. I have a feeling that the world will grow to meet us soon enough.

 

[Mark]

Just back from a long weekend in Amed. The scenery in East Bali is amazing. I'd have to rate it among the most beautiful areas of Bali. However, it seems like every truck in Bali is either originating in or returning to East Bali, and the traffic was horrendous. Three hours each way from Ubud to Amed (a distance of approximately 70 road kilometers), using two different routes (one going and one returning). And the drivers there, naturally frustrated by all the heavily laden, slow moving trucks, like to do incredibly risky, high speed multiple vehicle overtaking maneuvers, the likes of which are rarely seen even in congested South Bali. Absolutely bonkers, and I've been living and driving in Bali for 6 years so it ain't my first rodeo. Despite the breathtaking beauty, I wouldn't go back unless I hired a driver to deal with the road madness.

 

[Markit]

Just back from a long weekend in Amed. The scenery in East Bali is amazing. I'd have to rate it among the most beautiful areas of Bali. However, it seems like every truck in Bali is either originating in or returning to East Bali, and the traffic was horrendous. Three hours each way from Ubud to Amed (a distance of approximately 70 road kilometers), using two different routes (one going and one returning). And the drivers there, naturally frustrated by all the heavily laden, slow moving trucks, like to do incredibly risky, high speed multiple vehicle overtaking maneuvers, the likes of which are rarely seen even in congested South Bali. Absolutely bonkers, and I've been living and driving in Bali for 6 years so it ain't my first rodeo. Despite the breathtaking beauty, I wouldn't go back unless I hired a driver to deal with the road madness.

I really don't get why everyone is in such a hurry?

Let me break it down for you slow learners: there is one road around the island - just one, Ok?

Unless you are one of the aforementioned truckers or a Gojek driver stay the feck off it!

If you want to go, for instance, to Amed then use the road over the mountains (3 at least) that take you the scenic way. Perhaps over Seraya? Just stay away from the main drag. I've even come back to east Bali from Ubud over the north road from Lovina. It took an hour longer but, what the hell, it's a much nicer road.