Trip to Flores

Cassienne

Member
Aug 28, 2004
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New Zealand - Bali soon!
I’ve just had the bestest holiday! It was Idul Fitri so we got weeks’ holiday and I went to Flores with another teacher. Flores is amazing, all rugged hills beautiful sunsets. We had the bumpiest flight ever on the way over, and when we arrived we got off the planes at the heat hit us like a furnace. Even though it was so windy we could hardly walk, it was intensely hot. But that was just at the airport, as soon as we got furthur into the town, it got calmer. This guy drove us to the bus terminal, and he wanted us to use him as a guide for our whole trip, so he tried to scare us with tales of buses rolling into rivers, and people grabbing us as soon as we got out of his car and all sorts of crap. But we ignored him and took the public buses. Which are horrible!! But very cheap. The first trip was the worst for me, casue I had a guy crammed in next to me, and he like stared at me and leaned all over me for the entire four hours we were on the bus. And it was so hot! Even at night, it’s really hot in the buses, and you can’t believe how full they are, and then they cram in some more people, complete with kids and a pig or some chickens. And just when you’re feeling like you can’t stand it any longer, a whole bunch of them will light up cigarettes. Yuck! And I can’t believe the way the treated the animals, mostly they strapped them into the top of the bus, but the chickens they hung outside the window. Anyway, we got to Moni and it was beautifully cool there cause it’s quite high in the mountains. The next morning we had to get up at 4 o’clock so we could go up Kelimutu, so we went to bed straight away. The next morning we got up and jumped in the Bemo, which picked up some French people and then took us up the mountain. It was incredible! Kelimutu is famous for it’s three coloured lakes, which change colour suddenly and randomly, something to do with minerals dissolving in the water. The people of Moni think it’s the gods that change the colours depending on their moods, it’s a very holy place for them. It was stunning, especially after the sun hit the water. I took about a million photos. One of the lakes was black, the other was bright turquoise and the other one was brownish red. We stayed up there for ages, admiring the view, and taking pictures from every possible angle. Then we walked back to the car park, waited for ages for our bemo and finally jumped on the back of a truck full of people that was heading down our way. It was really fun going back, chatting with the kids in Indo and trying not to fall off the back.
We were going to leave that night, but the bus didn’t come, so we went to a traditional dance. It was really great, very different to Balinese dancing, no jangles or amazing costumes, just dances that represent day to day things. It was crazy too, the language they spoke was so much like Maori. It was heaps of the same words as Maori, although I don’t think they meant the same thing. And the singing was really similar too. We crashed in some tiny huts that night, with a very hard bed and a dodgy toilet, but a nice landlord. (So pretty much the same as every hostel in Flores.)
The next day we went to Bajawa, famous for its hot springs and traditional villages. The villages were incredible, I just couldn’t believe there were people who still lived like that, in tiny grass huts with no running water or electricity. It was fascinating, they’re still so undeveloped and they still retain all their old traditions, like ceremonies with animal sacrifices and other things. And they chew on this crazy mixture of nuts and leaves, which makes their mouths totally red. I just about had a heart attack the first time someone smiled at me, it looked like their gums were dripping blood. Very hard to get used to! The kids were the most adorable things every, and they were everywhere! There are so many kids in Indonesia, always just running around and playing together (when they’re not doing their chores.) And they’re so not used to white people. I felt like a celebrity, everywhere I went the people were waving and saying hi Missus! Hi Missus! Or hi Mister, often as not :) Especially the kids. And when you wave back or smile at them they just love it. They laugh and wave and beam these lovely white teeth at you.
We got these two guys as guides, and they drove us around on their motorbikes all day. We went to Bena and Loma villages first. Actally they had just finshed a ceremony, that at first I was really disappointed to miss, until I saw a great dead buffalo lying in the middle of the circle. We got the pleasure of watching it later on a video from one fo the Dutch tourists we kept bumping into. It was amazingly horrible. Christine just about threw up just from watching it. We also went to the hot spring, which was so beautiful, a big river in a forest, with heaps of rocks to flop on, and lovely hot water. The only drawback was that there were heaps of people taking a bath there. So we tried to get upstream as much as possible. But then it turned dark and almost everyone left. We just lay there for ages just relaxing and getting clean. We also went up to a volcano, and stood really close to it, while all this smoke gushed out. You could feel the heat, and actually see the ground bubbling. A great view too, down to the rice paddys. Actually there were fantastic views almost everwhere in Flores, it’s hard to stand on any hill and not be amazed. Everything is so green!

End of Part 1.

I have much more to say, but I think I better say it later. Hope you guys enjor realding this!
 

Sparky

Member
Aug 9, 2004
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england..LONDON
Cassienne you certainly have a zest for life and seem to be enjoying your life in Bali and yes for sure i dont mind you sharing your adventures within this forum. Its a shame there were not more people like you. :)
Yes keep giving us postcards of you adventures in Bali as they are a pleasure to read. :wink:

Regs Sparky
 

Roy

Active Member
Nov 5, 2002
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Ubud, Bali
Again, I find myself totally agreeing with Sparky! Cassienne, you seem to have acclimated to Bali, indeed Indonesia in general, very well. Your youthful enthusiasm is infectious and a delight to share through your posts.

Please keep your posts coming and continue to share with us your experiences! Selamat!
 

Jen

Member
Apr 17, 2004
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Sydney
You go girl! Have a brilliant time and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to hearing more about Flores. Did you go to any of the surfing beaches? The tri coloured lakes sound amazing and it's making my feet very itchy to travel Indo again.
 

Cassienne

Member
Aug 28, 2004
64
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6
New Zealand - Bali soon!
Trip to Flores - Part 2

Okay guys, here's Part 2

So we left Bajawa, with its rugged peaks and spectacular sunsets, for Riung, which promised quiet white sanded beaches and incredible snorkling. The bus trip was just as squashed as before, but at least we were jammed in between girls this time. After a couple of hours, to the complete astonishment of most of the bus and the people we passed, I extracted myself and stood hanging out the door, like the Indo guys do who can't find a seat. It was lovely, just sailing along with the incredible views and the wind in my face. But the looks I got from the people outside! I don't think they've even seen a girl at the door, let alone a Buleh.

We got to Riung and there was nothing, absolutely nothing there. A few tiny hostels and one resturant, and a whole bunch of dudes on bikes. That was it. Still, it was very peaceful. We really got stared at there, walking around, I think quite a few of them had never even seen white people before. This cute little kid sidled up to me and ran her hand down my arm, to see what white skin feels like, and then ran away, giggling like crazy. We sorted out our trip to the islands for the next morning, and then this guy asked if we wanted to go to the beach. He dropped us there on motorbikes, and left us. We were totally unimpressed, it was muddy, smelly and almost unswimmable, even for me. (Christine said no way was she going in there) Then all these guys appeared and stood all around us. It was the strangest thing, about 12 guys standing in a semi circle, staring at us like we were some exotic animal in a zoo, and not even trying to talk to us. We sat there a few minutes, trying to talk to each other and wondering what the hell we were going to do. The guys just watched us, and we hadn't even taken our clothes off yet! And we certainly weren't going to. Then, to our relief, another guy arrived and asked us what we were doing there, when the real beach was just around the corner. We laughed, and got up, adn he took us to this beautiful beach, with gentle waves, awesome shells, and absolutely no one on it.

The next morning we got up super early. We were sharing a boat with an Aussie guy and his girlfriend. After awhile our guide came along and said go to the beach. I asked him where, adn he said straight. So we walked and we walked and didn't get to any beach. We started worrying a bit, but the the Aussie guy said "Are we going to the beach? Oh, we were supposed to go left!" We groaned, becasue it was getting warm, and we so couldn't be bothered walking all the way back. But he said this road would link up, so we turned left. And we walked and walked and walked and walked wayyy further than the first time, and still didn't see any beach, and then he said, Jesus I think we're supposed to be on the other side of this hill. His girlfriend asked some Indos where to go, adn they took us on a lovely long walk through the forest, which we couldn't enjoy becasue we were worried about the time. So we finally finally got to the beach, to find our boat gone, but luckily the guide was still there and he actually yelled at us for being late! Which we only were cause we followed his totally incorrect directiions. Anyway, we got on a boat eventually and soon we arrived at a gorgeous tiny beach on an island, with lovely little huts to shelter form the sun. We did some snorkling, which was amazing, adn then had fresh fish for lunch. Then we went to an even more beautiful beach island, where the snorkling was even more fantastic. At first there were these beautiful single corals, with tiny delicate fish swimming around them, but as we went further, it became a whole coral garden, with fish everywhere! It was stunning! And always you hear this noise, like a thousand people saying ch ch ch, which is the fish munching on the coral. And they look so cute when they do it, like they're kissing the coral. It's adorable. We saw puffer fish, intense blue starfish and plenty of Nemos. The nemos actually tried to attack me, whihc is so funny, cause they're tiny, but they're very territorial fish! One of them actually banged its head against my mask! After we exhausted ourselves snorkling, we got out, and the boat took the other two home. So it was just us, stranded on a completely deserted island! We felt sooo lucky, how often do you ever get to lie on a beach as beautiful and that and have it all to yourself? We were so alone, and we also wondered what we would do if the boat didn't come back. I actually thought it was a very nice idea, but Christine didn't :) She wanted to be able to get back to school.

Christine went snorkling again, while I tanned myself on the beach, and suddenly, this fisherboy arrived, disturbing me in my sunbathing. And he came on shore and sat right next to me and started raving on in Indonesia, so fast that I didn't have a hope of understanding him. I was really annoyed, but I couldn't even leave him, cause all of our stuff was strewn about the place. I gave him all the piss off vibes I possibly could, but he was immovable. Eventually I did go, and went and said to Christine we should move our stuff along the beach. I went back and found he'd jumped into the water and was spearing all these fish, which I found pretty traumatising. Then he got out, showed me about twenty fish he'd speared and then got back into his boat. His motor had managed to break, just while he was in the water, which he annouced with screams of rage.

He got it fixed pretty quickly, and then thank god, he was gone. (Waving goodbye like one of out bestest, oldest friends, but at least he did leave.) And we were left to lie on our gorgeous deserted island again. We lazed in the sun for a few hours and then our boat returned. We went snorkling onece more on the way home, over some very different coral, but almost as amazing. It was an awesome trip. and waiting when we got back were some women with mangos, so we munched away of thirst on them. Delicious, they were! I don't think mangos have ever tasted so good.

We left Riung the next mornign for Ende, where we stayed in a "posh" hotel. (Which meant it had a fan, a shower and a clean bed.) And it seemed like a queen's bedroom after some of the places we'd stayed. It even had a nice view. The next morning it was back to the airport in Maumere. We had a bit of a stressful trip, cause Christine was so worried we would miss the plane, but actually we got there way ahead of time, and had much waiting around. One of our students was there, who I didn't even recognise he was so out of context, but Christine did, so we had a bit of a chat with him - I think he was as diconcerted as we were to see each other in a plce so far away from school. I bought an ikat sarong. Ikat is what Flores is famous for, it's a handwoven material which is dyed using tree roots that take a whole year to prepare. So it was nice to get one, but I think I paid too much, buying at the airport and all (although it was the most amazingly small airport you could ever imagine.)

And then it was back to school :( :( :(

Thanks for all the enthusiastic replies! It really makes me feel great to think that people are enjoying reading this.
Love Cass
 

Roy

Active Member
Nov 5, 2002
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Ubud, Bali
Another great trip report! Totally enjoyable, and thanks for sharing all your experiences.

If you don’t mind though, can I add a little more perspective to your line, “ikat is what Flores is famous for?”

Ikat is famous all over Indonesia. Without question, the two most cherished, and prized ikats are the gerinsing, or double ikats of Tenganan, Bali, and the Iban pua from Sarawak, Kalimantan. As for the Maluku and Nusa Tenggara area, the ikats of Savu and Sumba are also highly prized.

The gerinsing ikat of Bali is particularly prized because both the warp and weft threads are tie dyed before being woven on a traditional back strap loom. These magnificent cloths are only rivaled by the famous patola ikats of India, from where the Balinese ikats were inspired.

Among serious textile collectors, there would be no argument that the most cherished, valuable, and precious ikats of all of Indonesia come from right here…in Bali…and from Tenganan. It would not be exceptional to find an antique, three by one meter sarong, in perfect condition, selling for in excess of US $10K to $20K. They are the “textile pride” of Indonesia.
 

Jen

Member
Apr 17, 2004
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Sydney
Loved reading about the ch, ch, ch sounds. Made me laugh and I felt I was snorkelling with you. I too, just love the sounds you hear under water.

Asking directions in Indonesia! What a hoot! You never know where you will end up. I suppose, that's half the fun.

Now get back to work ya bugger!
 

made marko

Member
Jun 12, 2004
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Niskala, Berkala
Saudari Cassienne,
I am inspired!
I feel the cynicism drain from me in rivers as I read.
Life is good if - you are good at it.
Roy, let's marvel at the magical fabrik that is being woven before our eyes...although; it is very Balinese of you to be a critic of the knotwork &;~)
 

Cassienne

Member
Aug 28, 2004
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New Zealand - Bali soon!
:lol:
Okay, Roy, I'll bow to your superior knowledge of ikat. My humble opinion was formed from what I'd been told by an Australian guy who lived there for four years, and the people of Flores themselves.
Cass
 

Roy

Active Member
Nov 5, 2002
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Ubud, Bali
Trust me, there is a whole lot I don't know...that's for sure. As for Indonesian textiles, I've been seriously collecting them and dealing in them for many years before I moved to Bali.

Unfortunately, I've sold off most of best and most valuable batiks Belanda, ikats and songkets, as it's just too hard to protect them here in this bug infested climate. I'm down to about 200 pieces, and they are all stored away in sealed cabinets. What's the point of having these nice pieces if you can't enjoy them, and when enjoying them puts them at too much risk?

I have no doubt that after you've been around in Bali/Indonesia for some years, you will be very well informed on a number of topics too. In many ways, you already are :!:
 

Sparky

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Aug 9, 2004
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england..LONDON
Keep em commin Cass you cheerful little lass. :) How long do you plan on staying in Bali Cass and are you going home for Crimbo or are you staying in Bali. By the way Roy and Bert how is Christmas celebrated by you both especially you Roy with you and your family being Hindu.(interesting )


Sparky
 

Roy

Active Member
Nov 5, 2002
4,835
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Ubud, Bali
By the way Roy and Bert how is Christmas celebrated by you both especially you Roy with you and your family being Hindu.(interesting )

Funny you ask that question. Just a few weeks ago, when in Bangkok with Eri, I came as close as the thickness of a hair on the butt of a nasty macaque to buying an artificial Christmas tree and all the trimmings.

In years past, and this year as well, we’ll get together in private parties with other expats at restaurants, yet run by other expats, or our homes, to celebrate Christmas Eve, and Christmas day. We’ll have our turkey, and eat it too! But as for Santa, (relating to my kids), he doesn’t come to Bali.
 

made marko

Member
Jun 12, 2004
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Niskala, Berkala
My family, all but me being nominaly Christian, or agnostic always invite me to Christmas celebrations. But I have'nt recieved a xmas gift in many years!
No tree at my house.
but the mistletoe... :wink: