Markit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Karangasem, Bali
Some friends and I took the chance and decided to "see" some the country we have chosen to live in and packed up our shorts, tshirts and frilly underthings and set off last week on a bit of a tour.

Got the ferry from Padang Bai to Lombok which takes about 4 hours to get there - those that get sea-sick take note the fast boats are a rollercoaster ride but the slow boat is a gentle cruise. Cost point IDR 120k and pack nothing as there's lots of goodies offered before launch and the Nasi Campur aint that bad.

Got to Lombok and took a left headed for Sengigi, which is the jumping off point for trips to the Gilis and found the governments attempts to create the "New Bali" can be seen with every second hotel/resort either for sale or derelict - or both (more about this later). Spent the first night in Sengigi - stay down town as the out of town places are ghostly and quite lonely. There is some great draft Bintang to be had there. Muslim islands generally suck for beer supply - it's kinda like doing a crack deal each time you order and fecking expensive - one place charged us 70k/beer :icon_e_surprised: - always ask first to avoid apoplexy, usually it's between 35 and 40 similar to Bali.

Best thing that can be said for Lombok is that the roads around the north are brilliant for motorbiking - wide, well kept and largely empty. Whether this is part of the govs plan to attract more tourists I don't know or care it's just fantastic for biking. Long stretches of empty, good highway curving through some spectacular (but really, really dry now) scenery.

Got to the other side of Lombok and took the ferry to Sumbawa which is only booked at a half hour but can (and did) turn into 2 hours of waiting to dock. Sumbawa would make the US dustbowl look tropical. It's the pinup child for deforestation and dry, dry, dry. Calling it a ****hole might be erring on the side of generosity. It is poor and dirty and grim but has some spectacular women. Willing and lovely with great tits. The roads on the main drags (Sumbawa Bera to Bima and then down to Lakey) are the equal of Lombok and even fewer people on them. If you use Google maps believe what they say DO NOT go off on your own you will get eaten and raped, in that order. There are some evil roads going to evil places with some skinny, hungry people living (if you can call it that) there.

For biking it's damned good and that was the main point of the trip. Food's good too - ate all local grub on both islands, street food all the way and the only time we had any trouble was on the last night we decided to "treat" ourselves to some classy western grub - always a mistake in my experience. Isn't there something in the Bible about ****ting through the eye of a needle?

On the road back from Sumbawa we got back to Lombok (seemed like heavenly lushness in comparison to Sumbawa - but the girls are plug ugly - thank goodness for the Jilbab it covers a multitude of sins (If the girls wear a Jilbab is that funny hat the boys wear a Jackbab?) and headed south to Sasak country. You couldn't hope to find a more surely, thankless and unfriendly bunch of Indonesians and Kuta is a complete **** hole so next time you read "Lombok Kuta is the next Bali", of for that matter any other Indonesian destination, you can tell em to go piss up a rope. I've been to 6 of the admittedly huge number of Indonesian island in the last 3 months and they were all ghastly, poor, dry and miserable places with the shining exception of Bali.

Upon reaching Lombok/Sumbawa/East Java/Sulawesi I was utterly shocked by the huge number of shiny, new, no expenses spared Mosques being built everywhere but have yet to see one new school or hospital. Have taken to advising beggars to ask their Imam for money as he appears to be minted. Oh I'm not talking one or two, in the first hours drive through Lombok we counted 20 before we gave up counting... 20 in construction shiny, new Mosques. I figure if this keeps up they will have one for each family. Maybe their belief protects them from illness and accident?

Well if it's some comparison to Bali you are after or just a great ride on a motorbike (ok, scooter, but a very manly scooter) then I recommend pack a bag and head off with a mate or 2 for some island hopping, it's great fun and worth the time.
IMG_2435.jpg IMG_2433.jpg IMG_2450.jpg IMG_2475.jpg

Perfect roads across North Lombok (south suxs and they drive worse than the Balinese!) beaches everywhere and dry, dry, dry...
 

Mark

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Apr 19, 2004
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Nice report Markit. Riding on good roads is great fun and not so common in Bali as you know. Dryness is a theme and I think that the El Nino phenomenon is the culprit. Spent a week in Ubud earlier this month on vacation and visiting the wife's land and noticed that everything was incredibly dry. Even at 600m above sea level the plants were suffering severely and fruit trees not very productive. Lower in elevation, the football field in Ubud is basically dirt with some dried out yellow weeds, as opposed to dirt with tall green weeds... Here's hoping for a good rainy season.
 

Markit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Karangasem, Bali
It's always dry here this time of year and like anywhere else the "bad" season seem to stretch endlessly. Be careful what you wish for when it's about rain. I've seen it sometimes rain uninterrupted for 3 weeks here in the east but in Ubud that's the norm for Nov/Dec...
 

spicyayam

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Jan 12, 2009
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Every other week you see a travel article with the headline "Lombok the new Bali" or "Sumbawa is the new Bali", so it is interesting to read a different perspective. As much as we expats sometimes like to criticize Bali it is sometimes not until you travel somewhere else do you realize how nice Bali is. Even though it is the end of the dry season, it is still fairly green around our place.
 

davita

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Mar 13, 2012
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The following is a post I contributed, on another forum, to a question asked about holidays in Lombok....

"Be very careful entering or exiting Lombok by air...I understand it is NOT a designated port for the free Visa on Arrival (VOA). Today's Jakpost has an article written by a tourist from Capetown who had a problem recently with his visa. He entered RI in Bali on a free VOA but planned to exit from Lombok till he found he couldn't, due to Indonesia's stupid immigration rules. He nearly missed his connection in Singapore back to Capetown.
Better make sure before planning to visit Lombok

The joke here is that Lombok was supposed to be a new version of Bali...it AIN'T.

Firstly, it is seriously Muslim and the people are called 'Sasak' which, imo, mean unfriendly. The beaches are nice and some are pristine but there is little else. There are 3 islands just NW offshore that have become quite touristy...Gili Trawangan is the most popular with the snorkeling/partying crowd...the other 2 are more laid back...no cars on those islands. It is easier to get there by fast ferry from Bali than by air as Lombok International airport is in the middle of nowhere.
Story is the Dubai investors stirred the RI government to build this airport as they were going to develop the south shore beaches but Emaar Development Corp. went bankrupt so Lombok now has a 'white elephant' airport. The smaller one, just outside the main town Mataram, was more convenient but now closed.
The place will surely be developed for tourism but it aint gonna happen in my life. A Chinese Co. wanted to build but the Muslim community only want Arabs to get involved.

Further to my non-recommendation for infidels who may wish to visit Lombok...here is a link to an article recently published in many newspapers.
It basically says what I said above...that Lombok...other than the 3 Gilis I mentioned.... is fanatical Muslim.....
"

Near Bali, Lombok invests in Sharia tourism | The Japan Times
 

Markit

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I'm not so sure about the "fanatical" moniker with respect to anyone - the term gets bandied about a lot, particularly after some horrendous crime, re Paris, happens.

As I said we went over the top of Lombok and gave up counting at 20 massive, spanking, brand new mosques that are either finished or almost. The question I have is where is the money coming from for this building bonanza?

Sure outside of some of them there's little boys, and some not so little ones, gathering donations in buckets from passing traffic but from what I saw the Lombokis aren't a wealthy bunch and the buckets looked pretty empty.

I'm going to tip for Saudi money after the motto "build them and they'll come" financing the construction and the locals just going along for the ride.

The Sasaks didn't strike me, admittedly on short acquaintance, as overly dynamic or religious.

Funnily enough on Simbawa where through abject poverty and environmental Chernobyl the skinny devils would probably be more amenable to a dose of fanaticism the mosques were ramshackle tin huts.

But the women were lovely - tall, great tits, olive skinned with magical oriental eyes and a very frank way about them.
 

davita

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I'm not so sure about the "fanatical" moniker with respect to anyone - the term gets bandied about a lot, particularly after some horrendous crime, re Paris, happens.

FANATICAL definition by Dictionary.com...

"adjective
1. motivated or characterized by an extreme, uncritical enthusiasm or zeal, as in religion or politics."


Exactly the meaning I had in mind when I wrote it.
 

Markit

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Every other week you see a travel article with the headline "Lombok the new Bali" or "Sumbawa is the new Bali", so it is interesting to read a different perspective. As much as we expats sometimes like to criticize Bali it is sometimes not until you travel somewhere else do you realize how nice Bali is. Even though it is the end of the dry season, it is still fairly green around our place.

Spicy I think those pronouncements are on par with the legislation that's been coming out of Jakarta also or at best wishful thinking.

I've been to East Java, Sulawesi, Sumbawa, Lombok and last but not least Bali in the last 6 months and none of the other islands can hope to hold a candle to Bali in terms of infrastructure, culture, ecology, economy, friendliness or cuisine.

I met some Dutch business men on Sumbawa that tried to sell me great seaside property for the ridiculous sum of 30 juta/are. Now I'm sure that these vultures got it for a tenth of that price and thought they'd found a gull to squeeze. These are the people touting the "New Bali" around - someone with a private agenda.

I've met, as I'm sure most of us here have, people that have been to Bali 20 and 30 times and it's Bali's depth of culture that keeps them coming back - these other places are lucky to get someone coming once - and most of those were surfers.
 

Mark

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Apr 19, 2004
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It's always dry here this time of year and like anywhere else the "bad" season seem to stretch endlessly. Be careful what you wish for when it's about rain. I've seen it sometimes rain uninterrupted for 3 weeks here in the east but in Ubud that's the norm for Nov/Dec...

Fair enough, but north of Ubud at the wife's land it hasn't rained at all for over three months. And, given Bali's widely reported water shortage, a robust rainy season would be very good for the water table, tho perhaps not for your social life.
 

Markit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Come off it mate. Do you really expect us to believe you can count all the way to 20.
Amazing how gullible you believe us all to be.

If you didn't have inexhaustible supplies of cheese and performance enhancing pills Ron we might fall just fall out.
 

davita

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If you didn't have inexhaustible supplies of cheese and performance enhancing pills

You should lay off that stuff Markit...otherwise...they wont let you compete in the Olympics...

I mean the cheese....the other stuff is mandatory...:icon_e_biggrin:
 
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no.idea

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Feb 22, 2011
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If you didn't have inexhaustible supplies of cheese and performance enhancing pills Ron we might fall just fall out.
I am confident my supply of cheese and performance enhancing pills will out weigh any insults. Plus with the opening of a butcher's shop in Sanur we now have a great supply of quality meat available here. If you catch me at an off moment I will introduce you to the guy behind it all.
I cooked up some lamb shanks in Kilkenny Irish Beer yesterday. Bloody beautiful.
 

Markit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Karangasem, Bali
I am confident my supply of cheese and performance enhancing pills will out weigh any insults. Plus with the opening of a butcher's shop in Sanur we now have a great supply of quality meat available here. If you catch me at an off moment I will introduce you to the guy behind it all.
I cooked up some lamb shanks in Kilkenny Irish Beer yesterday. Bloody beautiful.

I'll tell you what noIdea (or anyone else of upstanding character and alcoholic nature : in the near future my next toad (sp) trip will probably be to Flores - you can come along and we'll show you some of the country you say you've been living in for the last 16 years? Your luggage will consist of the above mentioned items and you bring your own (manly) scooter.

Don't be a pussy all your life, take a day off.

Markit
 

no.idea

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Goodness me. The fool has found there are islands other than Bali in Indonesia and now he wants to show off his new found knowledge. Maybe I should mention that Flores is an island I once lived on. When you get to Ende and other similar areas remember to load a jacket in with you gear.

Markit, maybe I can show you around Sulawesi as well and watch the amazement on your face as your realise how many people know me on both islands.
I laughed at your comments and lack of knowledge about Lombok. Why do you think they do not like you in the Kuta area of Lombok? You talk and look exactly the same as the American guy who caused all the hassles with the Moslems in that area. They did not appreciate what he tried to do to their Mosque. Check back to 1999 when they burnt out nearly all the Americans on that island. If I was with you in Senggigi again you would have been amazed by the number of people who would have addressed me by name. Okay I must admit I have not been there for 6 weeks but I still own a house there.
I could even mention places that have cold beer. For that matter we could have gone to Gili Air, Meno and Trawangan I could could have introduced you to friends of mine who operate various business ventures there. I first went there about 25 years back.
After that we could head to Borneo and you could shown me places such as Tarakan, Nunukan and Samarinda. (I have some great stories of my times in Samarinda)
Yep, I really am looking forward to you showing me some of the country that you have not yet seen.
 
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davita

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Goodness me. The fool has found there are islands other than Bali in Indonesia and now he wants to show off his new found knowledge.

hehehe...what I thought but he gives a good account of his adventure, which I found enjoyable to read, so wasn't going to mention what you said.

He could venture even further from Bali, as we did a couple of years ago, to Ambon by air and a ferry to Pasarua. I'm not sure he could take his 'manly' scooter unless first travelling thru' Suluwesi to Manado.
We were a family group so rented a mini-bus with driver who showed us all around Ambon...I even climbed the 600 metre mountain (OK hill) to see the magic waterfall at the top. I could piss more water than dropped from the waterfall.
What astounded me was the amount of graves...they ran out of room during the riots and had to put graves on top of graves....very sad. Ambon is now regarded as the most tolerant of all provinces in RI. I cannot imagine how intolerant it must have been then as I witnessed the result of the carnage.
The bay in Ambon is huge and it wouldn't take much imagination for the RI Tourist board to invest to bring tour ships there. It might also help with the mass unemployment of Indonesian youth I witnessed...no work and very little hope...it's no wonder drugs and hooch are everywhere.

Saparua is an island east of Ambon and we went by fast catamaran and paid extra for the air conditioned upper deck which was really cold...I had to go on deck to unfreeze. Not much to see or do but one of our in-law family was visiting from Holland (the only other bule) and his family member was presumed buried there near the grounds of a Dutch Fort which, coupled with the museum, was interesting to visit.

We are in process of planning another visit to Ambon and other places in the Molukas early next year. I'll take notes and pics and write a blog on those travels.
 

no.idea

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Feb 22, 2011
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Come off it Davita. Stop using big words on our main man. Ambon, Pasarua, Molukas, Monado and Sulawesi, this will all be too much. He will use up monthly his Wifi limit doing Google searches.
Okay Markit get on your gay little scooter and call around. I have heaps of cheese.
 
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davita

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Come off it Davita. Stop using big words on our main man. Ambon, Pasarua, Molukas, Monado and Sulawesi, this will all be too much. He will use up monthly his Wifi limit doing Google searches.
Okay Markit get on your gay little scooter and call around. I have heaps of cheese.

Very funny but you are correct....I'd forgotten that those living in the hinterland use morse code to connect to the internet.

Co-incidentally I was waiting at the traffic lights in my limo, reading the business news on the internet whilst sipping chilled Hatten Rosé from the onboard wine/beer chiller, when I heard a raucus noise from outside. I rolled down the connecting glass between the rear and our esteemed chauffeur and asked..."What's that noise?" Hari replied "It's from that 'motor' bapak." I looked at what he pointed and saw a clapped-out scooter with a long-haired, under a Harley Davidson helmet, bulé driving. "How does it make all that noise?" I enquired. 'It's coming from the bule's mouth bapak...he dreams he's driving a Harley so he's imitating the sound!"

I rolled up the screen and sipped another wine.....quietly contemplating our friend from Karangasem.

I'm just kidding...my 5 year old Avanza doesn't really have a screen between me and the driver...and the wine/beer chiller is an eski in the back that we have to remove if using the extra seats.
If the guy on a scooter can dream of driving a Harley...surely I can be forgiven for thinking I have a limo...:distant:
 
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