this is my first post- and i wanted to say that i have found this forum uniquely informative, sincere and frank. if all goes well, i hope to join your ranks as a bali expat in the next couple of years...but until then im happy to share what (little) i know from my 20-30 visits to Bali. (and i own a house in jimbaran)..
mariathe... first i would caution you that the demographics of the bali tourist have changed a lot. although net arrivals are as strong as ever, european, N american, and even japanese visitors (these groups may be considered higher spending, longer staying visitors) have been replaced by those of the ASEAN area, esp new demographic groups like Taiwan, Korea, etc. the latter groups are prone to a different style of travel that might include group tours, etc. i know that many of the more estabished hotel and villa operators relied on wholesaling rooms to such new visitors during the 2002-2003 lull but peripheral spending of the new bali visitor is far short of the old.
even a premium operator, like the villas (jalan kunti, seminyak) was rumored to be wholesaling normally $350/night villas at around 100$. even this month (jan 2005), the Four Seasons Jimbaran helps cover costs by doing similar in the post Xmas/NY lull. i was told they wholesaled to Taiwan operators and were running about 50% occupancy before CNY.
i SUSPECT 4* and 5* operators are generally seeing occupancy figures during these slow period in the region of 30% despite heavily slashed rates. that means that losmens, and traveller budget places (which lack the marketing) are probably doing same or LESS. i am told the breakeven for many hotels huilt within the last 7 years is around 35-40% and older ones maybe 25-30%
so....two things....LOCATION AND MARKETING.
for my money, empty houses sort of find ways of depreciating/breaking/wearing out quicker. instead of 2-3 houses in the far reaches, maybe you should consider one rental property in a more heavy traffic area (s'yak, canngu, sanur, jimbaran, ubud) and living yourself in a more distant place (lower overhead).
by doing so, you would be less reliant on the walk-by tenant, and would have a more stable income stream. i would also suggest that multiple houses means multiple headaches as its hardly easy being a landlord in (at times archaic) Indonesia.
older bali houses, well, are older, darker, more rustic- so know that their appeal will be limited to certain types of travellers/budgets. newer places are certainly, as you note, expensive, and limited to tourists with dosh!
in my research, people/agents/developers tout investment return rates of 10/15+ %. i would suggest caution. sure, it can happen, but i think that when you factor in fees like lawyers fees, maintenance, marketing budget, management fees, etc, you are really looking at 3-8%. and note also that a single house for rental has little economies of scale. as for building, well there is plenty to read on threads on this forum- do your budget and timeline, and multipy both by 2 (at least). lastly- know that it is not easy for a forienger to get a loan in Indo. and that the nextbest alternative for your hard earned cash is in a bank- whih in Rp's gets 10-12% interest and in USD can get 2-7% interest (ive heard that some local banks are giving 7+% USD 1 yr CD's- but watch out for default risk!)
that said, imho, i think that Bali continues to be attractive- very much so as a enchanting destination, as well as a long term investment (sorry- hate to sound so business-sy). i have read with interest the opinions on this forum on ownership options- that will take quite a bit of reflection on your part as well. personally i think the nomination workaround has found sufficient critical mass that the risk is not so great- ultimately, this workaround is against the spirit of the law- but would bali risk a massive real estate fall out? i doubt it barring extreme change in business climate (eg. regime change)...but i do also agree that 'bali is for the balinese'...and a long term lease, besides being politically correct, is also legally very much upholdable. my current house i have used the workaround. i am looking at another property- this one is leasehold.
there are many new 'glossy' developments that offer a fixed/g'teed return for up to three years...that might be a lower risk way of buying time. the good thing about that scenario is that you can get the developer to fix many of the things that inevitably are wrong/defective/need adjustment in ANY new house. (and beleive me, there will be ALOT). after all, you are not really ever living in the house!
also if you look around there are even apartments on leasehold that offer a steady cash stream on a fairly safe rental record. these apartments might be had for a lot less than a tourist or luxury villa.
Note- i bough a place two years ago off the plan. it was 8 mos late. overall i am pleased but now, even months after handover, there are numerous minor/major defects that need correction (and are slowly being corrected). as with much property (US, BKK, Sri lanka, Oz, NZ, London, pkt) worldwide, it has enjoyed capital appreciation.