Everyone tells you Bali has been spoilt by tourism. Even the Balinese, if pressed, will look gloomy and say, "Yes, of course, Bali is ruined." I don't think they believe this themselves. We first went to Bali on honeymoon in 1962, and I find that in many ways those thirty years have greatly improved it. It depends on what you want, or expect, to see. Bali was never a happy, innocent tropical paradise of artists who did a bit of rice farming on the side. It was a complex, inflexible society of clever and sensitive people who had to work enormously hard to get a living from a hostile landscape.
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