The train ride from Banyuwangi to Surabaya is magnificent through some stunning scenery, the service on the train itself is excellent. Jember Station is a hark back to the style of old British Rail Stations when the Master and his staff took pride in their place of work, spotless, brightly painted, house plant pots full of flowers and shrubs. The last ten percent of the ride into Surabaya though is on the North Coast of East Java and rapidly deteriorates into industrial estates and spillover accommodation from the city.
For the truly adventurous there are side rail trips leaving from stations en route, one in particular is a 'Sugar Cane' run from Jember to Situbondo passing through Bondowoso, the highest point is just outside that town passing over a point posted as '3000 mtrs above sea level' it is actually quite chilly there and the air is refreshingly clean and pure. Getting on the train is easy, there are no carriages as such but two or three cargo wagons with no doors and the rest open bed low loader bogies, just find yourself a space, set up a sunshade, and you will need this, pay the 'owner' whatever he thinks you can afford, then settle back for a journey where you will be the centre of attention the whole way, it is a brilliant way to meet thereal East Javanese...and everyone shares their food and drink, it is standard procedure for the Madurese based culture. Getting off is another matter, the train stops twice on the trip, if you wish to disembark anywhere on the way you wait until the train slows on a bend or steep climb and jump off...don't worry about backpacks and luggage, all your new friends will assist making sure your belongings join you...often quite emphatically!
Incidentally Bondowoso has several very acceptable hotels including the Palm Hotel, a sprawling Dutch Art Deco style building with extensive gardens and large swimming pool, the town is steeped in history and the people are very proud of their heritage, it is a perfect base for touring the area.
There is one decent hotel in Situbondo but that may change soon as the oft protracted and just as oft delayed IPPC Refinery Project looks like it will finally be going ahead, I have been following this closely for years now as our family owns a stretch of beach front land close by.
More info if required.
Joe 'Not all bad news but its called reality' Writeson