Some places are not quite 'magic'.

MikeO

My wife and I have been coming to Bali for many many years. Short stays, long stays all over the Island. We hadnt been to Ubud for about a year but I have to say that we have just had the misfortune to return. Ubud has changed dramatically, extensive new building just about everywhere, and the traffic [oh the traffic !] It has always been an issue of course but now it seems it is totally out of control. We stayed in Penestanan Kelod which we have always liked. Plenty of character, a reasonable distance out of town with plenty of easily accessible walks. However Penestanan Kelod seems now to be a throughfare for continuous through traffic from early morning until late at night. The narrow street has become quite dangerous to walk down - no pavements of course - but that used to be rarely an issue. A taxi to town takes ages due to the traffic jams - so one just doesnt go there any more. We have friends who set out to visit us from the south but gave up and turned around and went back ! I really dont know the answer - perhaps it is too late ? The danger is that eventually people just wont come to Ubud and maybe until visitor numbers start to fall nothing will happen ? Unfortunately we certainly wont be going back as there are still many parts of Bali that one can at least call the 'real Bali'.

Balifrog

As I mentionned elsewhere, or.in another post I cant see what is all the fuss about Ubud. It was on my list when I decided to settle down in Bali, as I had read from so many "expats" or visitors hat is was paradise, but a drive on main street, a look at the 100s of shops along this street made me even reluctant to step out of the car. I nevertheless went.for a walk, a beer, but that just confirmed my first feeling. Ubud is like Mont St Michel or Lourdes, a horrible tourist trap. Probably with Legian street one of the worst places in Bali, although for different reasons.

Balifrog

[USER=890]@SamD[/USER] , Dont take this bad , but concerning Legian area it probably also depends on your nationality. I mean if you're not Australian, you really feel like a 2 time foreigner. One time as non Balinese, and once as non Aussie. "Culture" gap with us from old Europe is rather wide.... Again, dont take it as a racist comment, but simply my personal feeling.

SamD

I'm not Australian but I have lived there for many years so probably more used to their ways. I suspect the type of Australians you may be referring to, we would class as "bogans". I can understand why somebody would prefer to be as far away as possible from this species of tourist. But the species is worldwide, it just so happens Australia has more than its fair share.

Foamcrest

Its not that Australia has more than its fair share of louts as there are ‘bogans’ the world over of various stripes its simply that Australia is so close to Bali and the airfares are so cheap thousands of Australians come here each year, the large majority of whom conduct themselves admirably however SOME do not and these are the ones who obviously and deservedly attract the most attention.

Mark

Indonesian towns are pretty uniformly unattractive, I'm not sure why people think Ubud as a town is someplace special. Maybe it used to be donkey's years ago but like most other 'special' places in the world it has sold its soul for tourist money. The reality is that Ubud is fine for essential services like banking, shopping, nice restaurants, etc but at the end of the day it's just another unattractive Indonesian town with all the typical problems of traffic, bad infrastructure and unplanned over-building. Better to stay in the countryside 15-30 minutes drive away from Ubud, where the air is clean, there is no traffic, nature is beautiful and tourists are thin on the ground. But I like your post. Hopefully more tourists stay away from Ubud so that it can become less hectic for those of us who need to go there from time to time.

JackStraw

The world changes. That's just how it works. Bali is just changing at a faster rate than any place we're familiar with so when we see our favorite rice fields torn down in place of another poorly built villa or half-assed vegan cafe, it hurts a little inside. Yet, that won't stop progress from happening. Rome used to be beautiful, rolling hills and look at what it is now. No one goes to Rome saying "look at this city! the ruined the old Rome" That's because no one was alive when the old Rome was there so we have no frame of reference. Granted, the lack of proper urban development in Bali makes this a horrible comparison to Rome but the point is, I think the fact that we are seeing Bali morph right before our eyes make it hurt a little more because we're seeing our memories destroyed at a rapid rate. All we can do is hope this tourist money coming in means the local government gets their act together and starts practicing a little thing called "sustainable development."

JackStraw

Balifrog wrote As I mentionned elsewhere, or.in another post I cant see what is all the fuss about Ubud. It was on my list when I decided to settle down in Bali, as I had read from so many "expats" or visitors hat is was paradise, but a drive on main street, a look at the 100s of shops along this street made me even reluctant to step out of the car. I nevertheless went.for a walk, a beer, but that just confirmed my first feeling. Ubud is like Mont St Michel or Lourdes, a horrible tourist trap. Probably with Legian street one of the worst places in Bali, although for different reasons.

I agree with you about Ubud Centre being a giant tourist trap and I'm sure all the expats that live in Ubud would agree with you. I lived there for a year and can count the number of times I ventured into town on both hands. I think I can speak for everyone here that the allure of Ubud is certainly not the center, but the surrounding, quaint villages around that. Correct me if I'm wrong.

SamD

[QUOTE] Probably with Legian street one of the worst places in Bali, although for different reasons. [/QUOTE] Last year I lived for four months on Jl Legian and I loved it. Walking distance to the beach and all the choices of restaurants, bars and cafes. Yes it can be noisy and the traffic is terrible, tourists everywhere. But I found the places that I liked and made my time there enjoyable. So when somebody says Legian is "one of the worst places in Bali" it is a personal opinion. I have lived in the "real" Bali in my wife's village in Gianyar and I know which part of Bali I prefer. Everyone has different likes and dislikes so you need to experience it yourself to make any sort of judgement. I have always found Bali unique in the sense I can be in the busiest tourist centre but still be able to find a quiet oasis to escape the madness. A quiet oasis with cold Bintang.

RossM

MikeO wrote My wife and I have been coming to Bali for many many years. Short stays, long stays all over the Island. We hadnt been to Ubud for about a year but I have to say that we have just had the misfortune to return. Ubud has changed dramatically, extensive new building just about everywhere, and the traffic [oh the traffic !] It has always been an issue of course but now it seems it is totally out of control. We stayed in Penestanan Kelod which we have always liked. Plenty of character, a reasonable distance out of town with plenty of easily accessible walks. However Penestanan Kelod seems now to be a throughfare for continuous through traffic from early morning until late at night. The narrow street has become quite dangerous to walk down - no pavements of course - but that used to be rarely an issue. A taxi to town takes ages due to the traffic jams - so one just doesnt go there any more. We have friends who set out to visit us from the south but gave up and turned around and went back ! I really dont know the answer - perhaps it is too late ? The danger is that eventually people just wont come to Ubud and maybe until visitor numbers start to fall nothing will happen ? Unfortunately we certainly wont be going back as there are still many parts of Bali that one can at least call the 'real Bali'.

This is an old post, but I'll throw in my thoughts. I agree on Ubud, changed a lot and not for the better. It's almost become another Kuta/Seminyak, somewhere different for people to get drunk and behave badly. I stay on the north side of Jalan Raya Ubud, up Jalan Sri Wedari, and Jalan Sandat, some nice places up there. I travel on a motorcycle, so traffic isn't nearly as much of a problem. I still enjoy a couple of hours at the market, seldom buying, but soaking up the atmosphere. The Balinese have become their own worst enemies, developing more tourism sites, and as a consequence their culture is suffering. I understand their 'greed'. It's still a poor country, and they want everything that tourists seem to have, and it must at times be demoralizing to see tourists spending like drunken sailors, and they want part of that $$ action. My favourite place these days is Bedugul, and north, cool, relatively quiet, and everything I need.

RossM

Foamcrest wrote Its not that Australia has more than its fair share of louts as there are ‘bogans’ the world over of various stripes its simply that Australia is so close to Bali and the airfares are so cheap thousands of Australians come here each year, the large majority of whom conduct themselves admirably however SOME do not and these are the ones who obviously and deservedly attract the most attention.

Agree Foamcrest. Bali is to some/many Australians what Spain and Portugal are to the Brits.

JackStraw

RossM wrote I agree Jack. Modern Bali at least has near decent services, and some very good services. One doesn't have to leave Bali to see the 'Bali of old'. Lovina comes pretty close, along with a host of other places. I still love the place after 43 years of visiting, and living there for a year. It can be frustrating at times, but is STILL a magical place for me.

As Mark Twain once famously said, "the only two certainties in life are death and frustration living in Bali"

RossM

Balifrog wrote [USER=890]@SamD[/USER] , Dont take this bad , but concerning Legian area it probably also depends on your nationality. I mean if you're not Australian, you really feel like a 2 time foreigner. One time as non Balinese, and once as non Aussie. "Culture" gap with us from old Europe is rather wide.... Again, dont take it as a racist comment, but simply my personal feeling.

I'm Australian, but I avoid the strip from Tuban to Canggu like the plague, and Ubud isn't far behind. I still spend a night or two in Ubud on each visit, twice this year, and again in November, but spend little time 'downtown'. It certainly isn't the place it was 20 years ago, but where is?? I recall Jalan Pantai, and Made's Warung back in 1979 on my first visit. JP and Jalan Legian were narrow strips of bitumen with gravel to the open monsoon drains. There was nothing along Jalan Legian after about 300 metres from Bemo Corner, and it was a long, dark walk to Legian Beach Hotel. Was that better? In some ways, yes.....in others, no. The Balinese have a better standard of living, but at what cost?? The open monsoon drains were horrible, but the low level of traffic was very nice. Back then most Balinese rode push bikes, and the wealthy rode motorcycles. Now most Balinese ride motor cycles, and the wealthy drive cars. I'm embarrassed by the conduct of many Australians, the types who never leave the south coast beach strip, and now Ubud, but regale their friends with stories of having been to Bali, and their exploits on their return.

Foamcrest

We have just come back from Bali after spending a month between Penestanan and Lipah. We went into Ubud twice, once to take some friends to the Lotus Cafe to watch a dance and another time just to walk down Hanuman and then a beer and those peanut brittle things they make at Ibu Rai. The traffic is just insane and the Balinese complete disregard for road rules, including driving against the traffic , parking anywhere no matter how much traffic you block, doesn’t help the situation. As we were on foot we were able to duck and dive into the little ally’s and side streets that we have visited years ago and a lot of it still have some mystery and charm about them. We love Penestanan, and have a villa there, tucked away from noise and traffic. Each morning I open the bedroom doors around 5.30 and listen to Bali waking up, the birds, the fighting cocks all having their say. And the smell of the yesterdays fires In the air, just wonderful. Each of us have their own expectations of Bali and reasons for being there which sometimes don’t easily transfer to the next person. For me it still delivers.

JackStraw

RossM wrote I'm Australian, but I avoid the strip from Tuban to Canggu like the plague, and Ubud isn't far behind. I still spend a night or two in Ubud on each visit, twice this year, and again in November, but spend little time 'downtown'. It certainly isn't the place it was 20 years ago, but where is?? I recall Jalan Pantai, and Made's Warung back in 1979 on my first visit. JP and Jalan Legian were narrow strips of bitumen with gravel to the open monsoon drains. There was nothing along Jalan Legian after about 300 metres from Bemo Corner, and it was a long, dark walk to Legian Beach Hotel. Was that better? In some ways, yes.....in others, no. The Balinese have a better standard of living, but at what cost?? The open monsoon drains were horrible, but the low level of traffic was very nice. Back then most Balinese rode push bikes, and the wealthy rode motorcycles. Now most Balinese ride motor cycles, and the wealthy drive cars. I'm embarrassed by the conduct of many Australians, the types who never leave the south coast beach strip, and now Ubud, but regale their friends with stories of having been to Bali, and their exploits on their return.

In terms of permanent living, I'd take modern Bali any day over what you just described in 1979. Sure, that does sound ideal for the holiday-goer but imagine raising a family in Bali back then? Not possible. I love that Bali has seen rapid development. We have better schools, hospitals, and infrastructure than ever before. Yes, it's far from perfect and if you don't like the tourist areas, then simply avoid them. I sure as hell do and I still find "the magic" of Bali every day. For those that long for the days of old, I'll tell you what I tell everyone else. There are thousands of underdeveloped islands in Indonesia with long, sandy, empty beaches. Go find them if that's what you crave.

Markit

JackStraw wrote For those that long for the days of old, I'll tell you what I tell everyone else. There are thousands of underdeveloped islands in Indonesia with long, sandy, empty beaches. Go find them if that's what you crave.

I couldn't agree more! Same argument against the fundamentalist goings on in Aceh. Everyone finds them terrible along with the Sharia Law. Point is if those that live there don't like it they have the choice of another 17,000 islands to go to where Sharia aint. There's pretty much something for everyone here if you have the "get up and go" to get up and look!

RossM

JackStraw wrote In terms of permanent living, I'd take modern Bali any day over what you just described in 1979. Sure, that does sound ideal for the holiday-goer but imagine raising a family in Bali back then? Not possible. I love that Bali has seen rapid development. We have better schools, hospitals, and infrastructure than ever before. Yes, it's far from perfect and if you don't like the tourist areas, then simply avoid them. I sure as hell do and I still find "the magic" of Bali every day. For those that long for the days of old, I'll tell you what I tell everyone else. There are thousands of underdeveloped islands in Indonesia with long, sandy, empty beaches. Go find them if that's what you crave.

I agree Jack. Modern Bali at least has near decent services, and some very good services. One doesn't have to leave Bali to see the 'Bali of old'. Lovina comes pretty close, along with a host of other places. I still love the place after 43 years of visiting, and living there for a year. It can be frustrating at times, but is STILL a magical place for me, but...............if my introduction to Bali had been now, my affection for the place may not be quite the same.