Thread: The Bali Paradox

Mr Diarta's essay was most interesting, and of great relevance. Tourism is a significant component part of Development in Indonesia in general, and Bali in particular. With all that Bali has to offer, this may be considered to be inevitable.

Development, by its very nature brings change, but it is not the only medium of change. In a world of a global economy, satellite communications, television, movies etc, few places can remain isolated. However, if development, inlcuding tourism, is defined as improving the living standards of countries and peoples, it is difficult to argue against it in principle, and Mr Diarta was not arguing against tourism. He is concerned with the effects of it on the Balinese culture. Rightly so.

Undoubtedly, tourism brings change. It exposes local people to external cultures and customs, both good and bad, and allows them to see first hand an affluence that is more widespread than in Bali or the rest of Indonesia. However, I believe that change can be accommodated alongside continuity. Societies are dynamic, and change over time, but culture and heritage can be preserved.

With development,people aspire to a better lifem and so they should. Most development is "top down", that is, at the level of national government and large corporations. It is generally capital intensive.

There are forms of development that are more effective being implemented "bottom up", and this is probably the most effective way of preserving culture and religion. It can be encouraged and facilitated by national and local government,but is must come from the people. It can start with parents teaching their kids, it can be continued in the education system, and encouraged and re-enforced in all areas of Balinese life.

It may be difficult, but in the final analysis, the Balinese people will decide their own destiny. I believe that the Balinese have probably a better chance of balancing their traditional way of life with development and tourism than most people undergoing a similar experience. They are starting from a strong religious and cultural environment, and by and large, have maintained their traditions so far. If they choose to do so, it is possible to mantain them for the future.

Academics like Mr Diarta can play a role in maintaining culture by identifying the dangers, and advising and encouraging the people to be adapt to change without losing their identity.

Bert & DrIvEr,

How does this play in your local communities? Are there recognisable efforts to maintain spirituality and culture, or is it part of a natural progression.

Also, in the long run, the point made by Matsaleh about advanced societies becoming more materialistic and consumer based is a valid point. Probably the biggest danger to tradition.

Does exposure to tourism and development touch all Balinese,
or only some who are directly employed or involved in development projects, including tourism.

What about the people in rural areas and in agriculture? Are they the ones to preserve the traditions?

There is an excellent book recently published which deals with this entire subject from the Balinese perspective. The book is titled “Bali Living in Two Worlds A critical self-portrait.” It is edited by the noted Swiss scholar Urs Ramseyer and was published in 2001, ISBN number 3-7965-1873-7. It is also available in the German language, title as “Bali – Leben in zwei Welten, ISBN number 3-7965-1872-9.

Within this excellent and insightful book are a number of essays written by noted Balinese scholars dealing with these important issues of maintaining the essence of Bali. Titles of various essays include: “The Dangerous Dream of a Golden Age” by Ida Ayu Agung Mas, “The Loss of the Last Paradise?” by IGR Panji Tisna, and “Between Holy Waters and Highways” by Putu Suasta, just to name three. Additionally it is wonderfully illustrated with a biting photo essay by the renowned photographer, Rama Surya. I regard this excellent book as mandatory reading for anyone who is serious about Bali beyond it being their play ground.

In his post, Chris Vinson wrote:

It may be difficult, but in the final analysis, the Balinese people will decide their own destiny. I believe that the Balinese have probably a better chance of balancing their traditional way of life with development and tourism than most people undergoing a similar experience. They are starting from a strong religious and cultural environment, and by and large, have maintained their traditions so far. If they choose to do so, it is possible to maintain them for the future.

I could not agree with more with those words. I live in what is largely regarded as the cultural heart of Bali, Ubud. In past years, while change has occurred, the people of Ubud, and the several surrounding villages, have maintained their culture and cultural identity very well. My family maintains all of its customary traditions and performs all the proper ceremonies as they have since before the arrival of the West. My mother in law’s kitchen is no different than a traditional Balinese kitchen would have been in a Balinese compound of hundreds of years past, albeit, she has capitulated to having one gas burner, and an electric rice cooker. However, all cooking is still done over her very smoky, wood burning stove.

My family does not mandi in the river anymore, as my father in law installed a pump and piping to the river to bring up water some ten years ago. My wife, growing up in her compound still remembers well taking her two mandi a day in the river…positioning spotters up river to keep a look out for “floaters.”

My father in law still maintains the family business of alang alang, but now uses a big truck to transport his goods, as opposed to a wagon. Each of his two sons and two daughters have received a good education, my wife, and her older brother to the collegiate level. There is one TV in the entire compound, and when the family wants to watch the news, or a popular Indonesian comedy, they all gather together to watch. There is some guilt on my part here, as I was the one who furnished them with the TV.

My mother in law still takes the bemo to market most every day to stock up on fresh fish and other goods to sell out of her humble and very traditional warung. Speaking of traditional, I’ve often noted to my wife that I see more of her mother’s breasts, than I do hers.

My family’s compound is not at all unique within our humble village of Bunutan-Kedewatan. All aspect of traditional adat are strictly followed, and life centers around our five temples and the Banjar. My cousin Wayan Dedik, after earning his bachelors degree in anthropology in the US, living abroad for five years, has returned to our village, still living in his father’s compound and still teaching gamelan to the youth of our village. In talking with Wayan, he conveys a stronger commitment than every to maintain and pass on the customs of the elders.

As much as some things have changed, better roads, sidewalks, reliable electricity, city water, better schools and even a modest medical clinic, things actually seem to remain more the same. A walk along the side roads of our village is like a step back in time. If one can ignore the motor bikes, automobiles, and the fact that roads are paved, one can easily get a sense of the Bali we see in the early paintings and photographs of Bali.

I get a sense of alarm and fear from many visitors to Bali, that Bali is changing too fast, and for the worst, not the better. To some degree, this is true. It certainly is true for Kuta, Legian and Denpasar. But most of these visitors to Bali do not get to see, or spend any time off the main roads, where the real Bali is, and is still functioning quite well. The Balinese believe above all else that the balance between the forces of evil and good must be maintained. I don’t see that changing, at least not where I live.