by Roy on Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:42 am
I thought I would revive this string since it seemed to end on a sour note. Moreover, in reading this string, I haven’t read much of anything that offers factual or accurate information. Additionally, this is the area in which I have either made my living, or at least supplemented my income since my college days.
The very mention of the word antique in association with Bali will often result in a raised eyebrow from many who have tried to find one that was not “made to order.”
There is a very good reason for this, as for certain, the vast majority of what is touted here in Bali as antique is likely no older than a new born baby. That is not as a result of a proactive scam, but rather it is a more loose association of the word “antique” to the look of antique.
In Bali, three kinds of items which are called antique can be found:
A) Total fabrications or reproductions made from new materials but with a patina (a finish or surface) imparting an aged look.
B) Partial fabrications using authentically old elements in combination with new elements to create an even more convincing appearance. This phenomenon is most often found in antique furniture where old parts are combined, or re-cycled with new parts to present a great looking item that overall can appear completely original.
C) Authentically old and original antique items that are not fabrications and are of a genuine age consistent to the appearance.
Obviously, pieces that fit into category A or B are very easy to find all around Bali. The shops here are burgeoning with such pieces, and they make up a large percentage of what should be classified as production arts and crafts. Such shops can be readily found all along Jalan Legian in Kuta, areas of Seminyak, Legian and Jimbaran, within hotel gift shops, all along the by pass road heading north from those points, Ubud, the environs of Ubud, north Bali, etc, etc,...ad infinitum. For the great majority of visitors to Bali, such pieces “fit the bill” for exactly what they are looking for...a highly decorative piece to bring home and enjoy for its decorative only qualities.
However, for the purist, or one who is really looking for authentic items, the items I classify as C, pieces can still be found, but that requires the same effort as is most likely required in finding genuine articles from your own culture back home. In other words, there are just as many, if not more non antique pieces being touted as antique in the Portobello Road market London, as are here in Bali.
While it is hopefully understood that I am not about to give away all my trade secrets, I am happy to share some of what I have learned over the years.
In Bali, and for that matter, most everywhere in Indonesia, one of the most likely areas of authentic items to be encountered is trade ceramics. The vast majority of these will be from China, and dating as early as the T’ang Dynasty, and the Sung Dynasty, when trade with the Majapahit empire intensified greatly. However, pieces from Vietnam and Thailand can be found here as well the result of intense inter-coastal trading.
Indonesian soil (clay) is not suitable for the high firing necessary for total vitrification as with stone ware or porcelain. Only low fired earthenware was made in Indonesia. As such, the most popular trade items imported into Indonesia during the first millennium was in fact ceramics.
I am still amazed on visiting other compounds here in Bali to occasionally find authentic plates, bowls, pots and storage jars dating from the Ming Dynasty, (16th century) and earlier, still in daily use. Their condition is usually not good...chips, cracks, worn over-glazes, etc. but nonetheless, here they are. It’s pointless to ask anyone in the compound, “where and when did you get this?” The answer is always the same...a shrugged shoulder, and a look of confusion as to why one would ever ask such a question in the first place.
Another source that has often been fertile to me involves temple re-construction. In such endeavors, some amazing sculpture, both in wood and stone may well be chosen by those Balinese in charge of the pura to be replaced by new materials. Temple cloths are also often replaced...the whole idea being to keep the God’s home as good looking and visually appealing as possible. By selling such items...those designated to be replaced, funds are quickly raised to cover the costs of re-construction or “face lifting.” Those items are generally not of great age, as in qualifying as antiquity, nor are they of cultural significance as to be better staying in Bali.
A third and fertile source can be found with Indonesian collectors. While it may seem surprising to some that there are Indonesian collectors here, the fact is, there are quite a number. As with collectors the world over, they will often sell a piece to help fund the acquisition of something else currently absent from their collection, and of great desire. Such collectors are here and some of the finest pieces we have ever been able to purchase have come from them.
As a final word, and contrary to often read misconceptions, authentic antiques and art pieces are most generally legal for export out of Indonesia. There are exceptions, most notably being stone carved sculptures of real antiquity and tribal art material containing parts from endangered animal species. Compliance to Indonesian cultural property laws, as well as international treaties such as CITES and UNESCO can easily be arranged through the Department of Archaeology. Photo certificates certifying the age, as well as approval for export can be obtained from this department, and acknowledged credible dealers are able to supply that document for such items.
For the novice, this field can seem cloaked in mystery and full of dangerous pot holes. It is. It is no different here than anywhere else in the world, including the well known markets of NewYork or London. Cheers, and for the cognoscenti, good hunting.
Om, Santi, Santi, Santi, Om