Bali Expat Forum - Bali Travel Forum

[Larnes]

Good morning all, this is my first post, so please be kind to me!
I have been reading this forum for a while, currently only as a Bali traveller a couple of times a year, with a longer term view to spending more extended time in Bali as a family.

I have been searching the internet and reading other forums but am currently unable to locate the information for which I search, perhaps some of you who reside in Bali and participate in temple life may be able to answer for me.

I am interested in knowing more about the processes and rituals which are involved with temple life, when Balinese say that they are "going to temple". I realise that each temple has different days which are important to that particular village etc and that the larger calendar also operates. What I would like to do is have a greater understanding of what this involves. Is it similar to perhaps particular important calendar days on the Christian calendar (feast days, holidays of obligation etc).

Thank you in advance, this is a very informative and lively location you have here!

[Roy]

First off Larnes, welcome to the forum.

To be honest, it would take a book to answer your question in any manner of accuracy and completeness. As it is, there is just a book, and it is called Bali Sekala & Niskala, which means, Bali, seen and unseen.

This book’s author is Fred B. Eiseman, Jr. and the ISBN number is 0-945971-03-6. It is easily available by searching the internet.

With that said, there is one “resident” forum member who is Balinese. Her name is Kadek and when she has the time, she is more than happy to explain her culture as only a Balinese can. With some luck, she will spot your post and offer some of her own insight as only a Balinese can. The fact is, that even as excellent as Fred’s book is, he makes it clear that is derived almost entirely to Balinese culture as he experienced it in his part of Bali which was Jimbaran.

[Larnes]

Thanks very much Roy, I will locate that book. I did gather that it would not be a simple answer as there rarely are.

Thanks again

[Roy]

Well, it’s just that Balinese culture is their religion, and it is complicated. It’s even complicated for the Balinese, especially those ceremonies that only occur once in a lifetime...like tooth filing (normally once, unless adopted), marriage (hopefully only once) burial, cremation, certain otons, etc, etc.

[Ipanema]

I have those books for sale if you are interested send me a pm.

Tks

[bookdemon]

I agree with Roy about Eiseman's book(s). There are other books as well which are quite useful. One which I just finished reading is called: Seven Plus Seven: The Mysterious Life Rituals in Bali by Katharane Edson Mershon. Though published in 1971, it is her account of Balinese family life within a village in the 1930s. It's real insightful and includes very detailed first hand accounts, not only of temple procedures, but most especially the 14 life rituals that most (every?) Balinese must go through in life. Somewhat of a rare book but maybe available in a library.

On a side note, is there anywhere on this forum where there is a listing of resources for study, a bibliography, etc? I recall seeing a source of language studies but, oh wait, I'll just go searching the forum first...silly me.

Richard

[bookdemon]

On a side note, is there anywhere on this forum where there is a listing of resources for study, a bibliography, etc? I recall seeing a source of language studies but, oh wait, I'll just go searching the forum first...silly me.

Richard

Well, I didn't see one so let me know if I missed it. When I get the time, I would be happy to start this project. I think it might be handy. Curious if others think this might be useful. If not, you know, I'll probably do it anyway.

[Kadek]

I am interested in knowing more about the processes and rituals which are involved with temple life, when Balinese say that they are "going to temple". I realise that each temple has different days which are important to that particular village etc and that the larger calendar also operates. What I would like to do is have a greater understanding of what this involves. Is it similar to perhaps particular important calendar days on the Christian calendar (feast days, holidays of obligation etc).

Thank you in advance, this is a very informative and lively location you have here!

Hi Larnes,

Welcome to the forum. As many have suggested, it might be a good idea to read some of these books, they will give you insight but just be aware that although the guiding principals may be the same, the actual practice on the ground varies from village to village.

Just to give you a brief idea, the ceremonies in Bali are governed by two different calendars:
1. Pawukon Calendar – 210 days cycle (30 of 7 days week called Wuku). This calendar goes from Wuku Sinta to Wuku Watugunung. If you look at a Balinese Calendar (which is superimposed on a Gregorian Calendar, you can find this information). Each day in the Pawukon Calendar has its own particular combination of 1 – 10 days week.

2. Lunar Calendar. Some temples and some Balinese ceremonies are based on the Lunar Calendar and occurred only once a year. For example Nyepi Day as well as some of the temples in Pura Besakih have their anniversaries once a year.

Regarding temples. Usually in a village there will be three primary temples: Pura Desa (for Brahma), Pura Puseh (for Wishnu), Pura Dalem (for Siva) and then some other temples for example Pura Ratu Lingsir, Pura Prajapati (in the cemetery for Batara Yama) plus Subak temples, banjar temples, clan temples, etc.

Each village member is a Pangamong (or part of a congregation of several temples). This means, the family will contribute yearly fee for these temples, contribute fee for the ceremonies, volunteer time and other resources. The cost varies according to the size of the temple and the size of the ceremony to be held. Just an example, my family is also a pangamong of a temple in Tegallalang (not where we live) the last time this temple was refurbished and therefore the ceremony was to be bigger, my family has to pay a turunan (fee) of 1 million rupiah, plus contribute time to prepare the ceremony called Ngayah, and also to contribute for in the form of offering and materials (such as rice, coconuts, etc). This is often mandatory for all Pangamongs although in circumstances where a family is very poor, other arrangement is made.

Most temples will have their temple anniversaries every 210 days that are based on the Pawukon. For example every Angara Kasih Tambir (Tuesday on Wuku Tambir). These temple anniversaries usually last for 4 days. Each day, families will come to offer and pray. There will be dances and traditional entertainment. All village members and also villagers from neighbouring villages will come and join these ceremonies.

Villagers will also visit the primary temples every Purnama (full moon/30days), Tilem (New Moon/30days), Kajeng Kliwon (15 days). It is usually only attended by the congregations of the temple and involved offerings and prayer.

A Family will also visit at other times if it requires holy water for wedding, cremation etc. This visit usually has to be arranged with the temple priest as it is not a normal day for congregation.

I hope it helps.

Cheers
Kadek

[BaliLife]

Do the many non-Hindu residents of Bali (I.e. Muslims, Christians, etc) also need to contribute to the Temples? If not, how are they filtered from the contribution? Is it based on the agama displayed on their KTP?

Ct

[Kadek]

No, non Adat members of the village (be they are Hindu, Muslim, Christian and foreigners from other countries) do not have to contribute to temple fees etc. But it has been suggested that expats might find it useful to contribute if only to have good relationship with the villagers (if so desired).

Hmm how are they filtered?

Well, it is a bit complicated to explain but I will try. Maybe, people will be more confused after this posting.

There are two systems operating in most (perhaps all villages – maybe except in Kampung Jawa etc) in Bali: Desa Adat and Desa Dinas. Well how to put this simply, in Bali these two systems work independently but are also side by side.

Desa Adat is the traditional governing of Balinese villages. In most cases the boundaries for Desa Dinas follows exactly the boundaries of the Desa Adat. A Desa Adat is made up of a group of Banjars. For example Desa Adat Peliatan is made up of 8 Banjars (Banjar Tebasaya, Banjar Ambengan, Banjar Pande, Banjar Truna, Banjar Tengah, Banjar Kalah, Banjar Teges Kawan and Banjar Teges Kanginan).

Desa Dinas is part of the modern Indonesian governmental chain as in there is Regional government/Kabupaten Gianyar, then township/Kecamatan Ubud, then village/Desa Peliatan; Desa Ubud, etc. In other parts of Indonesia for example Jawa, after Desa there will be RT/RW. But in Bali this will be Banjars that made up the Desa Adat.

All the Desa Dinas in Kecamatan Ubud (Desa Ubud, Desa Peliatan, Desa Mas, Desa Kedewatan (where Roy’s Banjar Bunutan lies) etc) are governed by the Camat of Ubud and its administration and report to the Bupati of Gianyar. However the Desa Adats (e.g. Desa Adat Peliatan and Desa Adat Ubud or Desa Adat Kedewatan) are independent of each other with its own rules and regulations called Awig-Awig. Desa Adat is headed by a Bendesa Adat and Desa Dinas by a Kepala Desa or Prebekel.

Balinese families are very attached to their ancestor’s homes, this mean the village where they were born and where their families originate. It is complicated to understand, but just to illustrate, I am from Desa Adat Peliatan and if I want to buy a land in Desa Adat Kedewatan and settle there, I will be an outsider in Desa Kedewatan the same way as a foreign national is an outsider here and I have to submit to the Awig-Awig applied to outsiders to settle there.

If I am a man and married, then I can choose to be part of the Banjar and Desa Adat Kedewatan, which means I have the obligations to follow all the rulings from this village and will have the same rights as other members of the village and the Banjar I settle in. But if I choose to remain an Adat member of my original Banjar in the Desa Adat Peliatan, then I can reside as an outsider in Kedewatan only as member of the Desa Dinas. In this instance, I will only pay a fee of an outsider to live in Desa Adat Kedewatan and don’t have any Adat rights or obligations there as I have obligations and rights to my original desa Adat. When I want to hold a ceremony, I have to go back to my original home village. This is the same if I died; I have no right to be buried at the Desa Adat Kedewatan cemetery and must be buried at Desa Adat Peliatan cemetery.
But as a member of the Desa Dinas of Kedewatan, I can apply for KTP and other Indonesian administrative requirements from this village Kepala Desa.

Many families who work in Denpasar but are from other part of Bali for examples also use this strategy - becoming a Dinas member where they settle in Denpasar and maintaining Adat memberships with their original village.

So in sort, an outsider (be he/she is from the neighbouring village or from other parts of Indonesia, foreigner, Hindu or Muslim) can settle and live in a particular Balinese village, but they are NOT usually part of the Adat. Therefore, these people don’t have any obligations to be part of the temple congregations, or be part of the Banjar and/or volunteer times to prepare ceremonies for Banjar members, temples etc. This does not mean they cannot visit and pray at the temples if they wish to do so (if they are Hindu of course). They are there as Desa Dinas members only, although, in some places the Adat will impose certain penalty and fee for outsiders to live there as in many instances the Desa Adat rules and regulations are valued more by the villagers as compared to the normal Indonesian regulations (but only when it pertains to its Adat jurisdictions and boundaries).

The Desa Adat is very transparent (in my view). The Bendesa Adat has his village councils or advisors and they discuss the Awig – Awig for any revisions etc). Any revisions or recommendations are then conveyed to all the villagers by way of the monthly Paruman in each Banjar where all Banjar members can discuss and vote. But I think the women should be allowed to vote at the meeting and not just discuss cooking and making pretty things at the PKK meetings.


Well that was clear as mud. Maybe Roy can explain it further from his village experience.

Cheers
Kadek

[Ni Luh Ann]

Wow Kadek!

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain some of the intricacies of this amazing culture for us. I try to read everything I can get my hands on so that I am not completely in the dark when I'm in Bali. Still, most of the books I have read are by non-Balinese. There's nothing like hearing it from someone from within the culture.

Thanks again!

[BaliLife]

Thanks Kadek, that was extremely insightful..

Ct

[Roy]

"Well that was clear as mud."

Absolutely not! That was GREAT!

“Maybe Roy can explain it further from his village experience.”

Not a chance. Your explanation was brilliantly organized, thought out and explained. Frankly, your command of the English language is better than that of the vast majority of the native English speaking posters on this forum! I can only imagine how your German is coming along! Selamat and cheers!

[Larnes]

Thanks for the info Kadek, very detailed and explained further some of the info I had already read. I have ordered the books Roy mentioned, just need to wait for Amazon to get them here.