Bule in the Banjar - Nyepi 2007 - Pacung village

[orang gila]

I couldn't post here yesterday as it was closed for Nyepi, so here is my report on what was an amazing experience for me.

I was honoured to receive an invite from our local Banjar to be part of the Ogoh Ogoh parade.

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Nyepi morning, I’ve been on the couch listening to Kitaro “Silk Roads” and chilling out trying to recall the events of yesterday. My body is aching, but it’s one of those satisfying aches, like after a game of footy where your body is broken but you have that inner energy buzzing.

I got myself dressed up (with the help of the crew) and went to the restaurant to wait for my ride to the village.
A tour guide started me off by saying, “Oh Bapak, you look like Ogoh Ogoh”

I could have taken that personally, but knew that he was impressed that I was involved that closely with our Banjar.

Down to the village, there was the main Ogoh Ogoh standing proud, and there were many smaller Ogoh Ogoh’s scattered around, all made by kids of varying ages. Even the tiny l’il tackers had their mini statue; must have been at least 6 or 7 different kids groups involved.


The youngsters were right into it, mimicking the older lads on the main frame, chanting, wobbling their Ogoh Ogoh’s, knowing that sometime in the future they might get a possie in the A league.


One of the kids group was from an area where half a dozen of our staff live. I remarked at one stage it was akin to the primary school sports days in Australia, all the kids excited with the fun and games, and a bevy of proud mums watching on.

We imagined them saying to each other, “did you see my little Wayan? Wasn’t he good”

As usual, there was no rush for me to get there, much direction from many people as to where things should be for the start of the procession. The Gamelan band was going for it, you could feel the energy rising.

Once things were set in place, we had a mass blessing which was followed by my group of lads chanting and strutting in a circle. This was the start of the Kecak trance dance – part 1.

It seemed to go on forever, the main road was blocked for an hour while they played their roles, the whole village had turned out, and were having a ball.

Time to go. The lads scurried back to their positions on the starting grid.


The platform on which the Ogoh Ogoh stands is a webbing of three inch thick bamboo, just enough space for each guy to have his little square. Must have been about 30 of these small squares; I was told to get in place, tried to, but my shoulders couldn’t fit through the frame, so I was allowed to stand outside the grid. Whew.

Thinking about it today, it was like sort of initiation for the young village boys.

The older guys were all barking out instructions, “lift it over your heads, wobble it, go left, go right, stop, start; over and over again. The platform and Ogoh Ogoh was really heavy, would have been hard enough just carrying it normally, but if you can imagine all this exertion while walking up the hill. I’m sure the elders were making this as difficult as possible, and they did seem to have a sadistic streak in them. After ten minutes, my back was already hurting, but I couldn’t lose face and drop off the pace; Trying to mimic the chants and keep swaying in time to the Gamelan band that was at he rear of the procession.

After 30 minutes, we finally got to Pacung Indah where the Ogoh Ogoh was parked, then back into the Kecak dance.

Great entertainment for another hour or so.

Then there was a rush to get back in position on the grid. This is where I pulled out. I was knackered. We left Moi behind and followed the procession. There was another couple of Kilometers to walk uphill towards the next village, then a long return journey back to Pacung.


A few years ago the Pacung and Baturiti boys met at the border between villages and had a small civil war, results were many guys spending time in prison. These days they must march in different directions to avoid any conflict.

We declined the invite to go down to the Banjar last night for “Pacung Cocktails”
We had our friend Cam up for Nyepi, and he brought along his Japanese friend Yasuo.

We decided that Bali Moon cocktails would suit us more, and after a few of those with beer chasers, we weren’t really in a state to walk back down the hill.

I don’t think the village missed us; they’d had enough laughs at my expense already.

Today is eerie; all we can hear is birds tweeting, along with the occasional pig squealing; no traffic sound, it is very pleasant.

Now it’s time to relax; we’re planning on a movie marathon, but I’ll probably end up kipping on the lounge. Oh how these old bones are aching.

I do feel chuffed being asked to participate; it was a great honor, an experience that I’ll never forget. I also feel that my involvement went a long way to enhance relationships in the village; while I won’t forget the experience I doubt the locals will as well.

Now for the show;

Pics of the Pacung Ogoh Ogoh Parade

[manc in oz]

Great post orang gila.

[Ipanema]

Great photos as well.

[Niskala]

Thanks for that,beautiful

[orang gila]

Thanks for that,

I forgot to add in the first post, that Moi & I did a tour of our area seeking out the Ogoh Ogoh's.

Here's some pics, Ogoh Ogoh Album


and my favourite;

[Fullmoon]

I enjoy reading your post. Thank you very much.